About Captives
February 4, 2024.
Starting today, we will update our perfume formulas to add captive ingredients whenever they are found in their GCMS analyses. Until now, we used to replace these captives, often adding multiple unnecessary ingredients.
We believe this change will be important for everyone, not only to find out the exact amount of captives, but also to understand how they affect the fragrance smell. Some of our buyers are students/employees from big houses and companies with access to these captives, and they will benefit significantly from this change as our formulas will become even more accurate for them.
You can now exercise your creativity by making your own replacements or simply following our suggestions below. We will also provide our own replacement formulas for some captives.
| Captive | Possible Replacement(s) |
|---|---|
| Paradisone® (Firmenich) | Hedione® HC (Firmenich) |
| Mahonial® (Givaudan) | Mahonia (Creative Formulas), Lyral® (IFF), Lyral Replacers |
| Nympheal® (Givaudan) | Silvial® (Givaudan) |
| Petalia® (Givaudan) | Peonile® (Givaudan) |
| Nirvanolide® (Givaudan) | Musk Ketone |
| Serenolide® (Givaudan) | Helvetolide® (Firmenich) |
| Sylkolide® (Givaudan) | Velvione® (Givaudan), Cosmone® (Givaudan) |
| Akigalawood® (Givaudan) | Rotunwood (Creative Formulas) |
| Rosyfolia® (Givaudan) | Geraniol |
| Calypsone® (Givaudan) | ? |
| Pomarose® (Givaudan) | Pommescone (Creative Formulas), Alpha Damascone |
| Pepperwood® (Givaudan) | ? |
| Mysoral® (Firmenich) | Firsantol® (Firmenich) |
Last update: March 19, 2024
IMPORTANT INFO: some captives are unique and can’t be replaced. Keep in mind that these replacements are not perfect and sometimes their amounts need to be adjusted. The purpose of this table is to suggest alternatives that “fill the gap” with similar olfactory profile, just like we did in our previous formulas. We will update this list whenever we discover new options; feel free to send us your suggestions.
7 Comments
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arandes62
February 10, 2024 at 12:37Helvetolide and Romandolide are two completely different musks. Helvetolide is one of the very few musks that can be distinctly felt in the top notes, it has a fruity pear profile and is very diffusive even at low percentages, Romandolide is the musk closest to Galaxolide.
Filipe
February 14, 2024 at 10:45You’re right; Serenolide is closer to Helvetolide. I removed Romandolide from the list!
bkkornaker
February 13, 2024 at 18:30Personally, I think the captives “should be” included in the formulas, and let the end users decide how to replace it.
Filipe
February 14, 2024 at 10:48I completely agree! I’m glad I finally found a lab capable of identifying most of the captives.
arandes62
March 31, 2024 at 09:50I don’t really agree. I don’t see why you should buy a formula with captive materials and try to replace them in some way, not knowing at all what they smell like. I’ll give you an example: Magnolan is described as “floral-green, reminiscent of magnolia, peony, geranium, grapefruit and lychee”… we know well that this material is in no way replaceable, if you do you will get a perfume with an olfactory profile absolutely divergent from the original.
This is obviously just my opinion.
alexvetangle
February 21, 2024 at 23:22What is the replacement for Cachalox?
Taxy
March 22, 2024 at 06:06This is indeed a great improvement.
Nympheal has been released in the recent weeks, so perhaps it can be taken from this list.
Also, is it possible to give an indication as to the replacement ratio? Nympheal, for example, is a number of times stronger than silvial.